New in Town (December 2024)

French flair at Farine

Bos en Lommer has made a name for itself for its sweep of excellent Turkish bakeries. But a French bakery has long evaded its grasp. Where do you go for the classics, like croissants and baguettes, when the cravings start? That’s part of what the team behind Farine thought – which led to the creation of the area’s first and hopefully foremost French bakery. Created by three friends – Frenchman Tom, local baker Mark and Exeter-hailing chef Mitchel – Farine’s origins were partly about filling a need, but as much about building something around what all three of them loved: food. “We always spoke about opening a bakery and doing something,” says Mitchel, whose connection to France stems from his time working as a chef there eventually relocating to Amsterdam. “Tom really missed a boulangerie from back home and I’ve been cooking since I was 14 and really got into my coffee, so it started to make sense.”

The goal with Farine isn’t just to be any bakery, but the best out there. “We want to be known across the city for our French baked goods,” says Mitchel. “Most of the bakeries in Amsterdam are Nordic-style ones. We want to be the French bakery; a place for amazing baguettes, pain au chocolate and croissants.” Having planned a soft launch opening that quickly became a hard launch (“people just kept coming!”) due to word-of-mouth, it looks like they’re already on track to do so. Part of that is the pastry, at least that’s what Mitchel thinks. “The first time I tried our croissants I knew they were something special”. One customer, originally from France, agreed saying this was the first time she’d had a croissant like how they make them back home.

While the focus is understandably on the baked goods, the decor is just alluring. Mitchel’s quick to explain they did everything by hand, from construction to sourcing of materials, like the novel parchment scroll menu that makes for a standout decorative touch. The result is impressive; decked out in a crisp blue and white colour palette, complete with a logo fondly dubbed Jean-Claude Farine who finds his home on the cafe’s facade, there’s an airy, open feel to the place. Elsewhere, coffee plays a starring role too. Mitchel explains they’ve partnered with Amsterdam favourite Uncommon for a range of curated roasts and specials. “Other than providing high-quality coffee, we’re also focusing on French press and batch brews as a unique selling point for customers.” It all contributes to Farine’s individual look and feel, a bakery where the basics come first. “Our ethos is to do the simple things well, from our baguettes to our croissants,” says Mitchel. “Everything else is a luxury.”  

Farine | open Thur-Sun, 09:00-17:00 (08:00-16:00 Sat & Sun) |  Bos en Lommerweg 96, Bos en Lommer

Latin spirit at Maracuyá

Amsterdam always welcomes a splash of colour, especially in the greyer seasons. And amid the leafy junctures and canals of Oud-West, a brilliant gleam of yellow cuts a memorable figure in the neighbourhood – otherwise known as Maracuyá. A new all-day coffee and lunch café – that takes its name from the Spanish word for passion fruit – its sunny disposition is inspired by its owners travels in Central and South America and their desire to bring some of it home with them.  

“We were really drawn to the colours we came across in places like Oaxaca”, says owner Bob, who runs Maracuya with his girlfriend. “We wanted earthy undertones and warmth versus the Scandi style that you find everywhere in Amsterdam. It’s a rainy city – it needs [colour].” They’ve achieved that with a mix of dark and light wooden tables and benches for texture, punchy art for flair and an open counter that feeds into the space’s laidback appeal. And while the café’s canary exterior might be the initial draw, the menu, atmosphere and wine list are set to make it one of the area’s go-to neighbourhood joints. “It’s an unconventional menu,” says Bob, an avid coffee drinker. “We have a lot of coffee; currently, there are eight different coffees from six roasters. We want people to explore!” Coffee is so much in abundance that they’ve offered a coffee-tasting experience in the past, to push the caffeinated drinkers a little out of their comfort zone. 

You’ll find mostly vegetarian and seasonal food here, like a herby omelette, a pumpkin toast for the autumn, and a zippy pearl couscous salad, among others. On Friday nights, when they open in the evening, you'll find a fish dish on the menu. As for the atmosphere, it leans heavily on the slower pace of life it draws inspiration from and makes for an establishment that operates under the premise that good things come to those who wait (a little). “Everyone talks to everyone here and we’re trying to build a real communal feel,” says Bob. “The principles about everything we make and our service are the same: do things well. From wine to food, we take our time, but that’s conscious – whatever we do, we make sure it’s always good.”

Maracuyá | open Wed-Mon, hours vary | Jan Pieter Heijestraat 95, Oud-West

World-class pizza at Vincenzo Capuano

As the world’s most popular food, pizza is always welcome. And when it comes to a world-beating pizza, even more so. Enter Vincenzo Capuano – a pizzeria named after its owner, who has every title and record in the pizza books imaginable; from creating the world’s longest pizza to being recognised as pizza maker of the year in Italy for his Neapolitan style. The pizzeria in Amsterdam is just the latest offshoot of this Italian franchise, which has multiple locations across the country. While ordinarily you might flinch at the word franchise, Vincenzo Capuano is an award-winner for a reason, and his pizzerias are no different: known for quality, locally sourced ingredients and a secret that makes their dough one of the best. 

“What makes our pizza special is the really light dough,” enthuses Valerio Damore, the restaurant’s manager. “Vincenzo’s recipe calls for something others don’t use. He uses what’s known as autolysis (a water-heavy dough-making method) to make the dough, which is made with caputo flour.” For a non-pizza person, this sounds technical, but Damore makes it clear that these details make the difference. From the ingredients that are flown in three times a week to the way the pizza is cut – everything is important. “We have our famous golden scissors in the restaurant, which help keep the structure of the pizza intact without it falling apart.” This all sounds promising but how’s the pizza itself? 

“You have to start with the classic, a Margherita if you really want to understand our pizza,” says Valerio. He’s right – it’s the baseline sell but an excellent one: a crust that’s airy yet crunchy, a tomato base that’s saucy and rich, and cheese that’s gorgeously stringy and structured. There are a few other highlights, like the Provola Pepe – made with provolone (smoked cheese), tomato and basil – a bestseller and award-winning pizza that’s brilliant in its simplicity and Valerio’s personal fave (as a Sicilian native), the Melanzanella - a pizza topped with grilled aubergines. That said, there are over 40 pizzas on offer, so there’s something for all tastes, plus a range of antipasti and fried dishes inspired by the street food of Naples. The eating experience is one to remember, too; the restaurant is housed in a 900 square-meter canal house on the Herengracht, but it feels distinctly Italian inside. “Everyone here is from Naples, apart from me,” laughs Valerio. “And we want people to feel that in the service too. It’s why there’s focaccia, coffee and limoncello on the house.” It’s these little details and the fact the kitchen is open until midnight that looks to make Vicenzo Capuano one of the city’s go-to spots for pizza. 

Vicenzo Capuano | daily from 12:00-00:00 (kitchen included) | Herengracht 88A, City-Centre

Elegance and minimalism at Tewatashi

Japanese food of every kind has swept over Amsterdam for some time. However, the traditional eateries and meals of Japan, from kaiseki meals at ryokan to sushi bars known for their surgical detail and ritualistic serving, are less often found. So Tewatashi is one answer to the pristine minimalism and high-quality culinary art of Japan, a new omakase-style restaurant in De Pijp that puts the Japanese way of eating to the fore. Omakase, which translates to “handing over”, means that you’re in the hands of the chef who will decide what to prepare and how. And yes, that means you’ll eat what you’re given. 

But fear not – in this realm, only the best food can be found. Whether it’s small dishes like Japanese omelette (Dashimaki Tamago), pickled vegetables (tsukemono), or mains of perfectly plated nigiri and textured, rich tuna that forms the bulk of the handmade sushi on offer. And you’ll try them all here. The format is a 12-course meal, all made in front of you by the chef, and the price ranges from €50-€90. 

Perhaps what’s as memorable, though, is the way things are served and the decor. Every plate and piece of cutlery – think smooth ceramics and delicate teacups – is handcrafted by five different Japanese artists, all of which you’re able to purchase and take home with you. Grab yourself a seat at the long oak bar under the lights and watch your food take shape before you, best enjoyed with a cup of their selected sake. Kanpai indeed. 

Tewatashi | Tues-Sat, 18:00-23:00 | Govert Flinckstraat 326HS, De Pijp