Amsterdam Eats: a History in Dishes

Dishes

This exhibition on Amsterdam’s food culture puts dishes at the center—ranging from everyday meals to haute cuisine, from delicacies to medicinal foods. Each dish is highlighted alongside a cookbook from the Allard Pierson’s collection, complemented by other cookbooks, objects, and recipes. Among the highlights are the only known copy of Amsterdam’s oldest cookbook from 1617 and a unique Portuguese-Jewish recipe manuscript from around 1800.

The exhibition not only showcases what is eaten but also by whom, when, and where. Prints, paintings, drawings, and photographs illustrate how food culture serves both as a reflection of the city and as a driving force behind its development. Historical maps reveal markets and dining establishments, from inns in the city center and country estates where the elite grew vegetables, to grand canal houses with staffed kitchens and the 19th-century middle-class neighborhoods and working-class districts with entirely different food traditions. In the 18th century, French influences became prominent, followed by elegant Parisian-style restaurants a century later. Subsequently, various migrant cuisines made their mark, and sandwich shops and snackbars became defining features of the streetscape. Time and again, new foods have become iconic in Amsterdam, sometimes drawing endless queues.

Trends

The exhibition also explores the role of food in today’s city and the challenges of the future. Contemporary Amsterdam chefs and experts have been invited to offer insights into various dishes and themes. New trends, such as seasonal eating, vegetarianism, and the sharing of recipes, turn out to be not so new after all.

Amsterdammers at the table

Together with seven representatives from all Amsterdam districts, the Allard Pierson is developing a presentation on the city’s diverse food cultures. Under the guidance of visual artist Malou Sumah, participants share personal stories about cherished dishes, table customs, and traditions surrounding meals. These stories are woven into a collective textile artwork. Conversations “at the table” with the seven representatives have been recorded on film. Visitors can also contribute to the growing tablecloth, making the exhibition’s finale a symbol of the rich diversity of Amsterdam’s contemporary food culture.