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Image from Nederlands Instituut voor Militaire Historie - Wikimedia Commons

Weesp then and now

A 700-year-old fortified town, Weesp and its protected historical city centre is a honeycomb of cosy cafés, soaring church steeples and photogenic drawbridges – with a history rooted in trade and defence, and a present steeped in cosy escapism.

History

Aerial photograph of Weesp between 1920-140
Image from Nederlands Instituut voor Militaire Historie - Wikimedia Commons

One of the Netherlands’ 14 fortress towns, Weesp dates back to the 14th century and – as you’d expect – features many fortifications and battlements. In fact, the old town of Weesp, which received city rights in 1355, has long been known as the "Pearl on the Vecht" for its clean river water, which proved very suitable for producing beer and gin. But once upon a time, it wasn’t habitable; back in the Middle Ages, the area surrounding it was a peat bog. However, the years went by, and a town cropped up (Wispe and Wesopa is the city's first likely mention), growing into a trading and defensive hub. The signing of the Peace of Münster – and its eventual integration into what would soon be the Netherlands – led to its role as a fortress town in the Hollandse Waterlinies (Dutch Water Lines), essentially a water border around Amsterdam that could be flooded in the event of an attack. Many of those fortresses still stand as visiting spots for families in the area. Beyond the forts, Weesp gradually expanded after the Second World War, with suburbs popping up in the west and a harbour being built. 

But Weesp was more than its defence lines. Gin, cocoa and beer were the town’s major exports while it was part of the Roman Empire. Wispe beer was mentioned as early as the 12th century, and in the 17th century, the industry was a key supplier for the Dutch East India Company. And Weesp was and still is the home of two of the country’s most known products – Dutch porcelain (circa 1759) and Van Houten Chocolate. Coenraad Johannes van Houten was a Dutch chemist from Weesp who was the first to treat cocoa with alkaline salts to remove the bitter taste and produce the chocolate that has now made a name for its home city. 

Weesp today

A panorama of Weesp in the morning sun taken from stationsweg
Image from Giampiero Maietti

Weesp is the newest district to be absorbed into Amsterdam, and while it is technically part of the city, it still feels like a lovely day trip with tons to do. This snug riverside town in the heart of the Vechtstreek is famed for its historical buildings, Van Houten chocolate and jenever. One of the Netherlands’ fortress towns, Weesp, has existed since the 14th century and – as you’d expect – features many fortifications and battlements. Its rich architecture and cultural scene includes the spectacular Ossenmarkt and Uitermeer forts, a stunning interwoven canal network cut by seemingly endless amounts of pretty bridges – like the Groene Brug or Lange Vechtbrug – three historical windmills and several buildings that date back to the 17th and 18th centuries – a time of rapid growth and prosperity. Weesp’s former town hall – a stately, neoclassical building – now houses the Museum Weesp, the municipal museum devoted mainly to 18th-century porcelain crafts.

As for its brewing history, beer still lives on in Weesp. Weesp’s last brewery, “De Leeuw” – right across from the St Laurentius Church – closed its doors in 1920. But in 2014, three brothers had the idea to take over the empty building and start Wispe Brouwerij. It’s an impressive space wherever you come from, complete with a large bar and an array of shiny copper beer kettles behind it. There is a GrandCafé, a bottle shop, a superb terrace overlooking the water, plus various tours and tastings on offer.